Balkans Holiday Revisited - Day 17 & 18

Days 17 & 18 up the Croatian Coast

We were glad to get back on the bikes and head north along the coast road of Croatia. This is a lovely road particularly the more northerly half and runs alongside several National Parks which sadly, we didn't really have time to visit. Along most of the route the mountains come down to the sea and the road winds around alternating small coves and headlands. The tarmac is perfect and all the bends are beautifully cambered. Even if you don't venture further into the Balkans this is a road not to miss either on a GS or sports bike.




At times the road headed inland. We rode through one village where the number of ruins and abandoned, shrapnel marked houses way outnumbered the inhabited ones. The streets seemed empty though there was some new building going on. Neaby were the warning signs of a minefield. This was the only significant evidence of the war that we saw in Croatia but really brought home the terror of living through it, if you survived. Having read up on the Croatian war I think this was the site of the Skabrnja Massacre A very sobering place to come across.



Anyway we didn't push too hard on this part of the trip and pulled over in the old town of Primosten in time for a few hours on the beach & a swim in the sea. One word of warning if you're heading this way - you need beach shoes. There's no sand, no nice round pebbles just sharp grit! Our entry into the sea was not elegant!

Our apartment here cost us €30 for the night and included a bowl of fresh grapes and figs from the owners garden

Later spent an hour taking photos of the sunset before a nice meal in one of the many restaurants



For our second night along this coast we stopped at the large seaside resort of Crikvenica. The Tourist Office suggested a small hotel and rang the owner to show us the way. Berto was wonderful, a large cheerful man riding a small red scooter and wearing a red builders hat as a lid. ( He also owned an Aprilia RSV Mille ) The whole time we followed him he rode one handed while talking into his mobile! Berto's Motorrad Pansion was lovely, with a balcony & sea views, a small bar and cost.....yes €30 ( there's a bit of a theme here!)

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Elvie